Mastering Fleece: A Guide for Your Next Cozy Sewing Project
When it comes to fleece fabric, the options seem endless—polar fleece, blizzard fleece, anti-pill fleece, Sherpa fleece, Lush fleece, and more. With so many choices, finding the right one for your next project can feel overwhelming. Fear not! Today, we’re diving into all things fleece: its history, the types available, the pros and cons of using fleece, and my top five tips for sewing with it. By the end, you’ll feel confident enough to tackle any fleece project and discover why this fabric might just become your new favorite.
A Brief History of Fleece
Polar fleece made its debut in 1979, thanks to Malden Mills in Massachusetts. Designed as a lightweight, easy-care alternative to wool, fleece quickly became a game-changer for outdoor apparel. Before fleece, athletic clothing was primarily made of wool—a fabric known for its warmth but also its itchiness and weight.
Patagonia partnered with Malden Mills to create the first polar fleece half-zip pullover, setting the stage for fleece to revolutionize outdoor gear. Made from polyester, fleece features a knit construction with a pile on both sides. This pile is what gives fleece its soft, warm, and cozy texture.
Types of Fleece Fabric
Fleece has come a long way since the 1970s. A recent trip to JoAnn Fabrics revealed an impressive selection of options, each with unique characteristics:
Blizzard Fleece: This budget-friendly fleece is lightweight and has minimal pile on the wrong side, making it less soft overall. Great for beginners but not the most durable.
Anti-Pill Fleece: A step up in quality, this medium-weight fleece resists pilling and features fuzziness on both sides, making it a versatile option for long-lasting projects.
Lush Fleece: True to its name, this fleece is ultra-soft with a longer pile. It offers excellent drape and is ideal for projects where coziness is a priority.
Sherpa Fleece: Mimicking the look of wool, Sherpa fleece is perfect for lining garments or creating a faux-shearling aesthetic. Its fuzziness is only on one side.
Lux Fleece: The most luxurious (and expensive) option, Lux fleece is dense, tightly knit, and often found in high-end athleisure.
Pros and Cons of Sewing with Fleece
Pros:
No fraying: You can leave raw edges unfinished, saving time on seam finishes.
Machine washable: Wash on cold, tumble dry low, and it’s ready to wear.
Water-repellent and insulating: Polyester construction keeps you warm and dry.
Breathable: Despite its warmth, fleece allows airflow, making it comfortable for layering.
Cons:
Pilling: Lower-quality fleece is prone to pilling, but anti-pill options solve this issue.
Bulk: Multiple layers of fleece can create thick seams.
Static: Expect a little extra zap in dry weather.
Heat sensitivity: Use a low iron setting to avoid melting the fabric.
5 Tips for Sewing with Fleece
Mind the Nap
Fleece has a nap (direction of the pile), so ensure all pattern pieces are cut with the nap running in the same direction for a consistent look and feel.Use Sharp Cutting Tools
Fleece is thick, so dull tools can cause jagged edges. Keep your rotary cutter or scissors sharp for clean cuts.Choose the Right Needle
A ballpoint or stretch needle works best for fleece, as it slides between the knit fibers without damaging them.Adjust Your Stitch Length
Increase your stitch length to accommodate the fabric's thickness and maintain stretch. A setting of 3.5 to 4.0 works well for straight stitches.Reduce Bulk in Seams
Grade your seams by trimming each layer to a slightly different width. This helps prevent chunky, awkward seams in your finished garment.
Sustainability Tip
Polyester fleece is durable, but it’s also synthetic, meaning it doesn’t decompose. Choose higher-quality fleece that will last longer and consider upcycling scraps to reduce waste.
Share Your Fleece Journey
Have you tried sewing with fleece? Which type is your favorite? Share your experience and tips in the comments below. Let’s keep the conversation going and inspire each other to create something cozy and fabulous.
